Jumat, 25 Agustus 2017

Astrology Cusps - More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Them

Have you ever taken the time to explore a single word? If I am lacking in knowledge on a subject at times I will Google that subject and then follow several of the listings to gain a general grasp. This can be frustrating or fun depending on the choice of subject. For example, this morning I Googled the word "cusp," a common word in my field of astrology. I did not look at astrological sites because after 35+ years of studying astrology I pretty much know that general information. I wondered what I might find on cusps if I reached outside my own field of astrology. Occasionally an explanation for one application can turn on the lights for another application.

Surprisingly, cusps come in several forms, according to the dictionary and encyclopedia. If you try my method of study, be prepared to spend a little time because some explanations take longer than others. I found...

· Beach cusps which relate to a beach shoreline and were described as a pointed and regular arc pattern of that shoreline

· In geometry and astrophysics, a cusp is a singular point of a curve (something like a shoreline?)

· Cusps in psychology are called behavioral cusps. This cusp apparently marks an important change in behavior that has far reaching consequence or in my words is pivotal to a change in specific behavior

· A dentistry cusp may be found on three types of teeth, a molar, a premolar or a cuspid (there is our base word)

· Astrological house or sign cusps that I will explain below.

I saw cusp paired with other words such as a

· cusp catastrophe (a geometrical pattern where stability is lost),

· cusp form (modular form theory i.e., a cusp form is a modular form that vanishes at a cusp)

· cuspidal representation (automorphic representation) and I have no clue what that is other than the definition mentions algebraic groups. The rest of the description went right over my head.

From this I got a picture in my mind that a cusp is a defined arc (curved line) with a specific point that can be pivotal and that the point may be or become unstable and could at some point disappear.

Astrologically cusp is a common word that is used for both signs and houses. A sign cusp is that point where the end of a sign gives way to the beginning of the next sign. A house cusp is the degree, sign and minute of the dividing line between houses at a specific earthly longitude and latitude. Let us take a moment to back up and understand some basics before we attempt to move forward.

Signs: Think about the space outside our world where the zodiac seems to reside. Notice I said "seems to." Earth's path and the path of most of the other planets around the Sun is called the ecliptic or the path on which eclipses occur. This ecliptic passes through twelve of the 60 or so constellations, depending on which constellation reference systems used. This specific collection of 12 signs is called the zodiac (circle of animals) that range on either side of the ecliptic, which again is the centerline of the zodiacal constellations. The constellations in general and the zodiac in particular are not located at a specific distance from Earth or anywhere else. The zodiac constellations are just somewhere out there outside the ecliptic and extend out into space an indeterminate distance. The stars that make up each constellation are light years apart within each grouping so each constellation is huge in terms of the space it occupies.

Additionally, there are no fences in space to create a clear demarcation (of space) dedicated to a sign, they just run into one another at a somewhat obscure meeting point. The constellations are of irregular length (longitude) but the corresponding signs are thought to have an average of 30 degrees each (who made up these conflicting rules?). I doubt if it could get much "spacier" than this but I can tell you from personal experience that the 12 sign zodiacal system does work.

So, each of the zodiac signs is 30 degrees long and just runs into the sign on either end because there are no fences or physical transition points in space that I know of. We number the celestial longitude distance in the sign 0 to 29, with 30 degrees becoming 0 of the next sign. But there is no physical division in space. Enter the word cusp. The transition between one sign and another is referred to as the cusp. The explanation for sign cusp is not complicated. A sign cusp is the transition point between one sign and its neighbor. Technically the accepted transition occurs between 29 degrees and 59 minutes of any sign and 00 degrees and 00 minutes of the following and adjacent sign. This is true of either end of a sign, the beginning or the end. 00:00 is the beginning and 29:59 is the end of any sign.

It is the planets that are read as being in a sign, which is a simple explanation for the appearance of a planet (which is closer to us) as it passes in front of the zodiac constellations. The zodiac is located in outer space beyond our solar system, therefore the planet is seen with the sign as a backdrop. How do you know which planets are cuspal? Astrologers usually allow three degrees at the end of the sign and the beginning of the next sign. That would equate to 26 degrees and 59 minutes to 29:59 for the end of a sign and 00 degrees to 3 degrees (no minutes) for the beginning of a sign. Astrologers would simply say plus or minus three degrees to the change of any sign.

How do astrologers read this? There is a blending of energies that occurs at a change of sign, a blurring where the signs are not as distinct. One influence is waning, one is emerging, both are involved but in a blended way. The strength of one diminishes as the influence of the other sign becomes stronger. This is a gradual process over six degrees of space. I have a friend who was born with the Sun at 29 Aries 55, almost into Taurus, plus she has four planets in Taurus. Day to day you see a very strong Taurus influence but do not ever forget she is an Aries. She is fully capable of acting as an Aries whenever she finds it necessary. Her Aries has not vanished it just is sublimated to some degree, buried under all that Taurus. Aries can still appear whenever it chooses. Astrologically she is an Aries with very strong Taurus overtones, or cuspal.

From the non-astrological dictionary or encyclopedic definitions I described earlier, I would choose the concepts of shoreline (the boundary between land and sea), a specific point in a curve, a pivotal change of behavior. stability may be lost, and a vanishing point is possible. I then can, if I choose, reformulate the way I think about a cusp, any cusp in any application. By sign cuspal refers to a boundary of some sort but is not clearly one sign or the other so there is an element of instability. By the gradual cessation of one influence and the gradual progression of the coming influence there is a vanishing point to the earlier sign but it seems to be located about three degrees into the succeeding sign. That illustrates the nature of the blending of signs that occurs at the cusps. The curve reminds me of our circular patterns and the curve of space marked at a specific point in that curve, pivotal in terms of influence, application or behavior. This illustrates how we can always add to our store of information on the cusp using science or everyday facts.

Houses are 12 divisions of the physical Earth relative to the longitude and latitude of birth at a specific moment in a day. Again there are no actual fences. Nowhere on this physical globe are there physical fences that act as dividers for the house systems. There are almost 8 billion people alive on this globe and we would need to employ 12 fences each. We would get nowhere, ever, if we had to encounter physical fences of that number and variety. So the cusp is a metaphor for a dividing line. My favorite description of a house is an arena of physical experience. For example, house one is your body, house two is your moveable possessions, house four is your family, etc. Due to the curvature of the Earth and the interaction between the Earth and the zodiac various house systems have differing amounts of space allotted to each individual house. A cusp is a handy dandy reference tool for knowing where the influence of one house ends and another begins, where one arena of physical experience gives way to another arena of physical experience.


Minggu, 13 Agustus 2017

12 Excellent Reference Books for Collecting Vintage Costume Jewellery in the UK

You have a thirst for knowledge and want to know more about the vintage costume jewellery in your collection. But which book to buy if you are living in the UK?

There are hundreds of reference books to choose from and most have been written in the US by authors who have a collection based in the US. How specific is that to us in the UK?

So here's a brief guide of 12 books to give a good over view of knowledge from Victorian through to the eighties and beyond. Actually there are more than 12 books here, because some authors have written more than one book that is useful.

This guide should cover general unsigned pieces and some signed pieces of jewellery. However there are no specific books ever written for the majority of the mass produced signed costume jewellery made by UK companies or made for the UK market apart from Wilson and Butler.

1. Costume Jewellery: A Collectors Guide by Caroline Behr (Miller's) (ISBN 1-84000-373-1)

A good place to start with a general over view and time line from Victorian, Art Deco, Arts and Crafts, 1950s, Czech, Austrian and some designers. Easy to read and has good photographs. Hand bag size and ideal to read on the train

2. Vintage Costume Jewellery: A Passion for fabulous Fakes by Carol Tanenbaum (ISBN 1-85149-511-8)

A must to buy and has the time line with expanded information. Includes Art Nouveau, Birmingham silver, machine, intro to Bakelite and plastic and a glossary. Loads of good photographs but none of the backs (a must for identification but rarely included in any book)

3. Secrets To Collecting Jewelry: How to BUY MORE for less! by Leigh Leshner (ISBN 0-89689-180-1)

Again a time line and over view through history but an absolute gem of a book because it has shows the backs and mechanism or findings that are essential to dating jewellery. This book looks at style and materials with specific photographs. Prom jewellery, art plastic, retro, manufacturing methods, Scandinavian, cameos. Mostly brief information but a very good visual guide. US book with $ price guide (2005). Another fabulous book to read on the bus or train as fits into your bag.

4. Jewels and Jewellery Clare Phillips (V & A) (ISBN 978-1-85177-535-4) or Jewellery: The Decorative Arts Library edited by Janet Swarbrick (ISBN 1-902328-13-2)

Could not decide which of these UK books was the most informative. So have I have included both

Jewels and Jewellery contains materials, a chronology of styles and manufacturing and distribution. Photographs of museum and pieces. Includes silver filigree, Berlin Iron, pearls, glass and enamel. Faith jewellery, cut steel, mourning and love jewellery not just jet or bog oak. Lalique, Ashbee, Liberty Cymric, Wilson, Gaskins and a time line pre Victorian to the 2000s.

Jewellery is a visual celebration of the world's great jewellery making techniques. From the ancient world until 1989. Full of information and photographs with more specific references to Jewellery in the UK.

5. Popular Jewelry of the '60s, '70s & '80s by Roseann Ettinger (ISBN 0-7643-2470-5)

Three decades of jewellery showing fashion and political trends that influenced the designs. US book with $ price guide (2006) The majority of vintage jewellery found is from this period and so makes this book invaluable to read. Well illustrated with pieces that are recognizable here in the UK. Including Mod jewellery, eastern influence, Pop Art, novelty, revival pieces, love beads, Art Metal, jade, plastic, wood and pave. The author has produced other reference books on other decades which are well worth investing in.

6. Collecting Art Plastic Jewelry by Leigh Leshner (ISBN 0-87349-954-9)

Bakelite is rare to find in jewellery in such quantities and variety as in the States. It is useful to recognize and see the variety of designs plastic has been used or with other materials. Celluloid, Lucite, thermoset, thermoplastic, laminated, reverse carved are more commonly found here in the UK and easily over looked. This book does make you look at plastic accessories in a whole new light. Does not contain enough information on galalith, the early plastic type that is more common in the UK. For this read books on Jakob Bengel.

7. Collecting Costume Jewelry 303: The flip side Exploring costume jewelry from the back by Julia C Carroll. (ISBN 978-1-57432-626-0)

This is the book that gets to the basics must have knowledge of vintage costume jewellery. The different components including the stones and cabochons that can be invaluable in dating and hardware clues that can be missed. Cameos, rhinestones, signed jewellery and photographs of the signatures, art glass, pin backs and so much more. I look at this book and always find something that I have not noticed before. One of my most valuable books in terms of knowledge. Also has a section of designers including Jonette Jewelry Co (JJ) that are not always found in other books. US book with $ price guides (2010)

Julia Carroll has produced other books including Costume Jewelry 101 and 202 in this serious. Both books are well worth having for reference as well.

8. Baubles, Buttons and Beads: The Heritage of Bohemia by Sibelle Jargstorf (ISBN 0-88740-467-7)

This is another gem of a book; as we had an abundance of vintage jewellery imported into this country from Bohemia up until the Second World War and then in smaller quantities after. Still available to find and collect but prices are rising. Sections on buttons, filigree, glass beads, plastic and glass cameos, 1930s, enamel and more importantly the history. After reading this book it has helped me date and identify cameos, filigree brooches and brightly coloured rhinestone jewellery of the 1920s and 30s. Hand finished and machine made dress clips and the different finishes used.

Sibylle Jargstorf has produced other books on beads and glass that are invaluable.

9. Cameos: A Pocket Guide by Monica Lynn Clements and Patricia Rosser Clements (ISBN 0-7643-1728-8)

Although there are many books on cameos, this small packet guide is full of cameos in materials other than shell. Shell is the most collected cameo jewellery type but for me it did not have an appeal. I wanted to know more about the glass, plastic, metal and gemstone cameos that I was finding. How to identify the materials used and when were they made. This book has an abundance of photographs covering a huge amount of cameos in these materials and more importantly recognizable for the UK market. US book with $ price guide (2003) For more in depth information on cameo jewellery then obtain any of the editions of Cameos: Old and New by Anna M Miller.

10. Victorian Jewellery by Margaret Flowers (No ISBN)

Not a book on vintage but antique jewellery that is now out of print but still available in several editions. First published in 1951 but well worth reading. Insight into the Victorian influences and seen in revival pieces. Birmingham's role in mass produced jewellery. This book is often sited in later books as being influential. Has the Victorian period in 3 parts and each section has the most used motifs of that period. Did make me laugh at the sheer snobbish attitude of the author at times but well worth reading. Few photographs and mostly in black and white that are not that clear.

11. Scottish Jewellery: A Victorian Passion by Diana Scarisbrick

Scottish jewellery is found in abundance in the UK. From the mid nineteenth century with the rise in popularity, had factories in Scotland and England churning out designs and pieces in the thousands. This continued into the late twentieth century mostly in Birmingham. This book is a good introduction. Not as in depth as could have been and do not expect information on vintage Scottish souvenir jewellery from Miracle, The Ward Brothers, Exquisite or Hollywood. Pages of photographs of agate and silver brooches and bracelets. But complicated by the photo guide at the end of the book. A good starter book to recognize Scottish motifs.

12. Warman's Jewelry: Fine & Costume Jewelry 4Th Edition by Kathy Flood (ISBN 1-4402-0801-8)

This is the 4Th edition of the Warman's Jewelry Identification and Price Guide. So 3 other books to obtain and read. In this edition two centuries are covered with pearls, figural, cameos, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and plastic. The difference between Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian jewellery. Again page after page of jewellery photographs. Good mix of fresh antique, vintage and modern jewellery. A mix of world wide designs hat I found applicable to the UK. US book with $ price guide (2010)

This is just a brief reference of general books for vintage jewellery that will change as more books come onto the market or I discover out of print books. Then there are more specific books on Bengal, Avon, Sarah Coventry, Egyptian Revival jewellery, Haskell, D & E, Wilson & Butler and so many more to read